home Japan

    Iseshima

      Iseshima is a beautiful and historically important part of Japan, which is associated with cultured pearls and the earliest mythological ancestors of the Emperor of Japan.

      Awako, noodle shop
      Mikimoto Pearl Island

      noodle shop
      Kokichi Mikimoto was born in Toba on March 10, 1858, the son of a noodle shop owner. When he was 13, he was selling vegetables on the streets of Toba. He first became interested in pearls from seeing pearl divers unload their finds. His goal in life was to become the third richest man in Toba - the two richest men in Toba were so rich that he didn't believe he could surpass them.

      In 1888, he took out a loan, and with the help of his wife and partner Ume, started a pearl farm.
      It took him five years, many failures, and near bankruptcy, before he was successful. In fact, there was a red tide that killed most of his oysters, and he almost gave up entirely at that point. However, at Ume's encouragement, he went on, using the few oysters that had survived. On July 11, 1893, Ume found the first cultured pearl, a semi-spherical one. It took 12 more years to produce completely spherical cultured pearls.

      In 1899, Mikimoto opened his first shop, in the Ginza district of Tokyo, and over the years, the stores expanded internationally. Mikimoto traveled all over the world, opening new shops and promoting pearls. In Paris, he was involved in a controversy with sellers of natural pearls about whether cultured pearls were "real" pearls. It was accepted that cultured pearls were real rather than artificial pearls.

      Mikimoto died in 1954 at the age of 96.

      The procedure used today to culture pearls was developed by Mikimoto's company. It involves opening an oyster and inserting a small round piece of mussel shell, which forms the nucleus of the pearl, and a piece of tissue, which forms a pearl sack around the nucleus.
      After this operation, pearls are suspended in wire mesh holders from rafts into saltwater, usually in a protected bay. Gradually, a substance called nacre is formed on the surface of the nucleus as the oyster protects itself from the irritation of the foreign body, and after a period of years, a pearl is formed.

      After they are removed from the oyster, pearls are sorted, and imperfect ones are removed. The pearls are then categorized by color - white, pink, yellow, gold, and black.
      Pearls are drilled from opposite sides and then strung. Usually several strings are assembled at the same time, and the worker tries to find the most perfect matches in size and color.

      On Mikimoto Pearl Island, visitors can see the Kokichi Mikimoto Memorial Hall, which has exhibits about Mikimoto and his wife and their efforts to culture pearls and later promote cultured pearls, along with some their possessions. There is also a reconstruction of the noodle shop owned by the Mikimoto family.

      Visitors can also see ama (female pearl divers) diving from a boat near the island. They are tied by a rope to a wooden basket, where they put what bring up from the bottom of the bay. Traditionally ama dove for pearl oysters, other shellfish, and edible seaweed. Today, they mainly perform for tourists, wearing their traditional white clothing. In the Pearl Museum, there is a statue of an ama warming her hands at a fire.

      In the Pearl Museum, visitors can learn about how pearls are cultured and see demonstrations and see different types of pearl oysters. There are also examples of pearl jewelry and works of art made of pearls. One of these is the Mikimoto Pearl Crown, which was made in 1978 to commemorate the 85th anniversary of the successful cultivation of pearls. It is made of 18 carat gold and more than 800 cultured pearls.

      There is also a shop where visitors can purchase pearl jewelry, including necklaces, rings, earrings, and bracelets.

      There are also several statues and monuments on the island. One is a statue of Mikimoto himself as an elderly man. Another commemorates the day that the first cultured pearl was found.

      Mikimoto Pearl Island is located in the beautiful Toba Bay.
      In this scenic bay are many small islands spread out on the blue water of the bay. The islands generally have green trees on top, rocky cliffs down to the water, and sometimes beaches.
      One of the islands is Iruka Shima (Dolphin Island), where visitors can get off and see dolphin shows. Toba Bay can be seen from sightseeing boats, followed by seagulls.

      Futamigaura

      Futamigaura is a small town by the sea which is famous as the location of Meota-iwa, or the Wedded Rocks. The Wedded Rocks are two rocks in the ocean that are connected by sacred ropes made of braided rice stalks.
      They are approached by a path along the seaside, through a torii. There is a fountain where visitors can cleanse their hands and mouths before approaching the shrine area.
      The rocks are considered to represent Izanagi and Izanami, the married founding god and goddess of Japan.
      On the land facing the rocks is a torii, and the rocks can be viewed through it. Japanese people like to come at dawn in the summer to see the sun rise between the rocks - even though the sun rises at 4:30 am!

      Near the rocks, also on the shore, is Okitama-jinja, also known as the Frog Shrine. It is dedicated to the patron god of the local fishermen.
      The word for "frog" in Japanese (kaeru) is the same as the word for "return."
      It was at this shrine that the wives of local fishermen would pray for their return.
      In recent years, the frogs are also purchased as talismans to increase wealth, in hopes that money paid out will return. There are also frogs along the path near the Wedded Rocks.

      The cave where Amaterasu Omikami (the sun goddess) once hid, according to legend, is also located near the Wedded Rocks. According to the story, the goddess' brother, the god of storms, wrecked her crops. Angry, she hid in the cave. Without the sun, the other gods and goddesses were worried, so they gathered around the cave entrance and set up a mirror. One of the goddesses danced, and the sun goddess peeked out to see what was going on. She was blinded by the reflection in the mirror, and the other gods and goddesses pulled her out of the cave.

      Along the walk near the rocks are also some giant clams. Their size is very impressive.

      Ise Grand Shrine

      Ise Grand Shrine is the most important, most sacred Shinto shrine in all of Japan. During the Tokugawa Era, when travel in Japan was severely restricted, people were allowed to travel to Ise Grand Shrine. Even today, more than six million people visit the shrine every year. The busiest time of year is New Year, when people come from all over Japan to pray at the shrine.

      The shrine is divided into two compounds, Geku (the Outer Shrine) and Naiku (the Inner Shrine). It is traditional for worshipers to visit the Outer Shrine first.
      Toyouke no Omikami, the goddess of the industry and agriculture and therefore of food, clothing, and housing, is enshrined at the Outer Shrine. It was founded about 1500 years ago. Visitors cross a bridge over a stream to get to the shrine. Across from the shrine is Magatama Pond, which has a stage on the edge for special ceremonies.

      Amaterasu Omikami, The Sun Goddess and the legendary founder of the Japanese imperial line, is enshrined at the Inner Shrine. It is said to have been founded 2000 years ago, at a site chosen by the 11th emperor, Suinin.

      To get to the Inner Shrine, one crosses the Uji Bridge, which passes over the Isuzu River and separates the secular world from the sacred. There are torii at either end of the bridge.
      After crossing the bridge, visitors can walk down to the river or walk along wide paths through peaceful cypress forests to the shrine.

      In addition to the two main shrines, there are about 125 subordinate shrines included in Ise Jingu.

      One of the unusual things about the shrine is that the Uji Bridge and the main shrine buildings are rebuilt and rededicated every 20 years. This custom has been followed for 1300 years, and the 61st rebuilding took place in 1993. The rebuilding allows master carpenters to teach skills to their apprentices, using tools and methods, such as building without nails, passed down from ancient times. Visitors can see only a little of the main shrine buildings themselves over a fence, because the buildings is so sacred, and photographs are not allowed.

      The specialty food of Ise Jingu is akafuku, a sweet made from bean paste covering mochi. The shape of the sweet is intended to represent the Usuzu River.

      Copyright (2006) by Kenji Kitao & S. Kathleen Kitao

    home Japan